Attendance at in-cosmetics Asia 2017 increased by 17% as beauty and personal care professionals from over 70 countries gathered in Bangkok
The tenth edition of in-cosmetics Asia welcomed a record 10,302* personal care creators from around the world – representing an increase of 17% compared to 2016 – to learn about the latest ingredients and hottest trends from around the world.
Highlighting the importance of the event to the APAC beauty and personal care industry, visitors arrived from a total of 74 countries with a third traveling from outside Thailand. Among the many nations represented were China, Korea, Singapore, Malaysia, Vietnam, India, Indonesia, Taiwan, Philippines and Japan.
Among those in attendance were some of the world’s top manufacturers including Amorepacific, Beiersdorf, Colgate Palmolive, Estée Lauder, Johnson & Johnson, L’Oréal, Procter and Gamble, PZ Cussons, Shiseido and Unilever. They gathered to see over 420 of the industry’s leading ingredients suppliers, with AkzoNobel, Ashland, Clariant, DSM Nutritional Products, Evonik, Lonza, Lubrizol, Momentive, Wacker Chemicals and many start-ups showcasing novel innovations from around the world.
Clayton Lloyd B. Young, Founder/Proprietor of Bedrock Home and Body Essentials Philippines, said “This was my first time at in-cosmetics Asia – three days wasn’t enough time to see everything! I have worked in the industry since 2011, but every day at the show was a constant learning experience. It is key for sourcing new ingredients and I also found the Formulation Lab really useful for learning new techniques.”
With an overall attendance of 14,675 visits, it is clear that Clayton was not the only overseas formulator that benefited from attending the show for more than one day.
Focus on current trends
At the heart of the event were three major trends that are currently making a big impact across the region: facial masks, colour cosmetics and natural extracts. To enable cosmetic manufacturers to identify new suppliers and the latest trends, Spotlight On showcase areas enabled visitors to find the latest relevant ingredients, while a series of presentations offered a deeper understanding of changes affecting the industry.
Facial masks is an area that is going through a huge upsurge in popularity. According to Mintel, 88% of urban females in China aged 30-39 used a sheet mask in the six months to April this year. Three in four used sleeping masks overnight, while 69% of these consumers used sheet masks in the evening.
The facial mask product showcase wowed visitors with a host of innovative products. Among the most popular was Ichimaru Pharcos’s Biobenefity ingredient, which has been produced to combat damage done to skin by environmental stressors like UV. PoreAway by Mibelle Biochemistry was also hugely popular, with manufacturers interested in learning more about how it reduces pore openings, the appearance of shiny skin and adult acne.
Natural extracts was another area brought under the spotlight at in-cosmetics Asia. In a global trend that started with the provenance and sustainability of the food they eat, consumers are increasingly turning their attention to what goes into their cosmetic products. A growing section of society, and millennials in particular, are rejecting ‘chemical-filled’ cosmetics for natural plant-based alternatives. It’s a thriving sector that is expected to hit US$13.2bn by 2018 and leading expert Gary Scattergood, editor of Cosmetics Design Asia, explained to delegates how the demand is increasing and why.
The final category brought into focus was colour cosmetics – a hugely en vogue and still-escalating trend that has many manufacturers excited. Millennials are the main driver for this shift through confidently choosing bolder looks. The global market for colour cosmetics is presently valued at close to US$50bn and is anticipated to exhibit growth of 4.8% CAGR. This means it is expected to surpass US$79bn by the end of 2026 so it is no wonder it was a highlight of in-cosmetics Asia.
“South Korean brands, such as The Face Shop, Etude House and Innisfree, fuelled the mass cosmetics boom by fulfilling Asian consumers’ need for self-indulgence and affordability through creative brand storytelling, eye-catching packaging, diverse product ranges and low-price points,” Sunny Um, Beauty & Fashion analyst at Euromonitor International, said during the event.
Socheat Ra, Dermatologist and Cosmetic, Derma-Atome Beauty Skin Clinic, Cambodia, said “This was my second visit to in-cosmetics Asia – it was bigger and better and there were lots of producers to learn from. I liked discovering the lipstick in the colour cosmetics Spotlight On area, and also found the focus on facial masks really useful. The Spotlight On areas helped me find ingredients I was looking for quickly and I came across so many products here that I haven’t seen anywhere else.”
in-cosmetics Asia was a hotbed for innovation, with 10 of the best new ingredients shortlisted for the event’s prestigious Best Ingredient Awards – all of which were available for visitors to view in the event’s Innovation Zone.
The winners were announced at a reception on Wednesday, 1 November, with three functional ingredients and three active ingredients judged by a panel of industry experts for their scientific excellence, formulation benefits for manufacturers and efficacy for consumers.
In the functional ingredients category, gold went to ARON NT-Z by NIKKO CHEMICALS CO for the superabsorbent polymer that is specifically modified for cosmetic use. It can hold water more than 20 times its dry weight and releases it when applied on skin. The polymer adds a unique sensation of watery touch with elastomer-like finish and a soft-focus effect.
After receiving his award, James Seguerra of Nikko Chemicals said: “This product was the result of a five-year collaboration – ARON NT-Z controls viscosity without disrupting the emulsion stability.”
Silver went to TEGO Solve 90 by Evonik Personal Care, which judges described as a “Cosmos solubiliser with excellent formulation solution results as well as multi-functional and multi-product applications. Also less foaming than standard solubilisers which has manufacturing benefits.” . While Lucas Meyer Cosmetics took the bronze award for its optimised patented combination of phospholipids and polysaccharides, Siligel.
Revivyl by Givaudan Active Beauty scooped gold in the active ingredients category for its unique way of acting at several levels of the skin rejuvenation cycle. It is the first holistic skin renewal accelerator to activate and protect skin stem cells, boost cellular metabolism and the differentiation process and also maintains skin microbiota. Silver went to SUBLIGANA by SEPPIC Asia, judges said “This active has outstanding 3 way results on acne – soothing, antioxidant and activity on the acne bacteria, producing excellent clinical results. Very on trend and effective active for the region.”. And exceptional soothing active DEFENSI®-SOFT by RAHN AG won bronze.
Fabrice Lefebvre, Marketing and Innovation Director, Givaudan, sai: “This is worldwide recognition from the industry and shows how R&D innovation can translate into answers that meet consumer needs.”
Hands on experience
The event emphasised hands-on experience, with R&D professionals invited to take part in the specially constructed Formulation Lab. Delegates were taught practical formulation techniques by representatives from the top ingredients suppliers including Ashland, Gattefosse, Evonik, Nikko Chemicals and Grant Industries, gaining exclusive tips and the opportunity to get work with innovative products.
Thierry Maysounabe, Technical Manager and Head of R&D, GTI Consultancy Services Philippines, said: “All I can say about the Formulation Lab is wow! The Innovation Zone and Spotlight On areas were so interesting as well. I loved what I saw – I found everything I was looking for and more. The experience was fantastic and really opened my mind to help me grow my business.”
A premier learning experience
in-cosmetics Asia’s educational programme didn’t disappoint with another packed agenda that saw theatre seats filled across the three-day event as visitors keen to benefit flocked for the advice available.
With the constant need to innovate to stay ahead of the competition, attendees were drawn to a Marketing Trends session taken by Mario Braz de Matos and Joel Cere of Flying Fish Lab – the Open Innovation Consultancy. They led their audience through the steps of innovation, from using creativity on a mass scale social approach to creating breakthrough products in an ever more competitive market.
The Marketing Trends and Regulations sessions were also complemented by a series of Technical Seminars. Led by suppliers of raw materials, visitors could familiarise themselves with key personal care ingredients and listen to cosmetic experts sharing insights on innovative concepts.
Zelita Rocha of Plantus Brazil, a first-time exhibitor, said “I sold 22 tons of ingredients at the show! I have exhibited at 28 events in the course of my career and this one is the all-time best. It is the perfect show and I cannot wait to rebook my stand for 2018.”
Jarrod Trusler of The Dow Chemical Company, commented “It was such a busy show I cannot even speak anymore! It provides a great platform to do business in the region. We had visitors from across Asia, from China to South Korea – what an excellent event!”
Returning to the BITEC centre in 2018
Sarah Gibson, Exhibition Director of in-cosmetics Asia, commented “We’re delighted with the phenomenal success of in-cosmetics Asia 2017 event, which also marks our 10th anniversary.
“We have found a winning formula for the show and are ecstatic to have made a group record with attendance this year. We had more new ingredients than ever before at the Innovation Zone and will continue to build upon our success next year with another raft of innovation to inspire the next wave of yet-to-be-realised personal care products. In 2018, we will go even further to facilitate beneficial business relationships between formulators and the suppliers they want to meet.”
in-cosmetics Asia will return to Bangkok in 2018, running from 30 October to 1 November. To stay tuned with all the latest show developments, and download the presentations and watch videos of the 2017 marketing trends sessions visit http://asia.in-cosmetics.com.